Food and dining might be described as a passion for many Spaniards. For
the visitor, some aspects of the local cuisine and customs may be a bit
confusing, specially on that first trip to Spain. Our idea is to provide
a few helpful hints to speed up the enjoyment process.
Schedules
The eating schedules in Spain leave many perplexed. Fact is the timing
of meals is quite different from America, and a bit of a variation on dining
customs in most of Europe:
- Breakfast is generally simple and spare - a cup of coffee and
a roll, croissant or toast. Many take only coffee and then grab a midmorning
snack at 11:30 or 12:00.
- Lunch generally starts at 13:30 or 14:00 and runs until 15:30
or even 16:00. It is typically a large 3-course meal, and for many Spaniards
it's the day's main meal.
- Dinner is often taken at a very late hour. Most restaurants
don't even open until 20:30 or 21:00 and tend to stay open until 24:00
or so.
Eating customs
Apart from the timing, there are several aspects of the local approach
to meals and dining that you might want to know:
- 3 courses is normal for both lunch and dinner. Typical starters
include: soups, vegetables, salads, lentil stew, or even an omelette. A
second course is generally either meat of fish, served with little (if
any) potatos, vegetable, etc. The dessert course could be fruit, sweet
or perhaps cheese.
- Sharing a starter or two may be frowned upon in the better restaurants,
but it's standard practice - and a nice way to try new things.
- Tips are normally included in the bill, but a 5-10% extra is
often left [but not required].
- Coffee (expresso-style) is usual after dessert, often taken
with a glass of brandy and a cigar. De-caf expresso is usually available.
What to eat
Spanish cuisine is as varied as the country itself. There's really no
such thing as a "typical Spanish dish" - but varies depending
on the region in which you find yourself. Local specialties run from the
bean stews of the north coast to the lightly fried fish typical of the
south. It's really hard to say where to start, but here are a couple of
basic guidelines:
- Fish tends to be superb in most places - Madrid, for example,
is famous for spectacular fish restaurants, as are Barcelona, San Sebastian,
Bilbao, and Santiago de Compostela.
- Lamb, particularly in the northern half of the peninsula, tends
to be incredibly good. When in doubt, try the lamb.
- Fried food is another specialty - no meal is complete without
a few fries on the side, and there's an infinite variety of battered and
breaded delights: squid, fish, eggplant, veal cutlets, and so on.
- Shellfish is abundant and beautifully prepared. One word of
caution: shrimp, prawns, lobster, etc. tend to be rather pricy!
- Menu of the day (Menú del día) is a good way to
lunch (and try new culinary adventures) at low prices. Restaurants are
required to offer a fixed-price menu - typically 3 courses with wine and
bread included.
- Spanish wine is not to be missed. Again, the supply will vary
according to the region. The least expensive alternative is "vino
de la casa" (house wine), which can be "tinto" (red), "blanco"
(white) or "rosado" (rosé).
- Cheese is another great Spanish unknown. Try the "manchego"
cheese made from sheep's milk and the potent "cabrales" blue
cheese made from cow's milk.
- Cured meats are another gourmet treat: "chorizo" sausage
and cured "serrano" ham are not to be missed.
For the adventurous
For those who enjoy new and different cuisine, you'll find some great
fare around Spain. Here are a few examples:
- "Pulpo" (octopus) is boiled and usually served "a
la gallega" with paprika, salt and olive oil. A real treat.
- "Calamares" (squid) are served in many forms: battered
and fried, grilled, or cooked in a strange (and delicious) black sauce
made from tomato, onion and squid ink! You'll also find "chopitos"
(baby squid), "chipirones" (young squid), and "sepia"
(cuttlefish).
- Offal, otherwise known as the odd bits are very much a part
of Spanish cusine. The list includes: "callos" (tripe), "mollejas"
(sweetbreads), "sesos" (brains), "riñones" (kidneys)
and "criadillas" (testicles).
That's it, enjoy!
Information Links for Dining in Spain
Barcelona Restaurant Guide
From the Timeout Guide to Barcelona, with a good restaurant list plus dining
customs and other helpful information.
Madrid restaurants
TimeOut guide to Madrid restaurants.